Attach the router by aligning a 2mm nail through the jig into a pilot hole at the centre and rout a circle. I used gorilla glue and 1 5/8" deck screws countersunk into the board. As a final option, you can use the swing of the telescope to determine the position for the attachment of a bracing bar. This generates the sizes for the wooden parts you need in the blue boxes. Mark the centre of each side and use the router to cut out further circles using position ‘e’. Fix the rocker base, front and side panels together using PVA glue and 15 No 8 1.5-inch screws (nine in the base, three in each side; these also need 4.5mm drilled holes). Transfer these figures to a diagram similar to the ‘Cutting Template’ in the ‘Construction’ zip folder (allowing an extra margin for the altitude bearing wheels – see Step 3) and ask your timber merchant to cut the sheet for you. This number was used to make sure the rocker box has adequate height so that the telescope can point at the zenith without colliding with the bottom of the rocker box. Again, I used wood glue and deck screws to attach the support beams to each other and to the legs. Router with homemade wooden arm attachment, nail is the turning pivot point. My bearings are 15 inches in diameter which is a 1.6 ratio. The box part widths can be calculated as follows: Side Height = Tube OD + ¼" bottom gap + ¾" top gap + (2 × Plywood Thickness), Top & Bottom Width = Tube OD + (2 × ¼" side gap), Side Height = 9 ¼" + ¼" bottom + ¾" top + 1" = 11 ¼". Tools – A standard crosshead screwdriver is needed for much of the assembly; Allen keys and spanners are required for some of the retaining bolts. Start by marking the centre of the rocker box base, then draw a line from one side to the other through this central point. This Instructable describe the planning, design, and par… Next, I drilled with out with a 1/8 inch drill bit, flipped the bottom over and countersunk each hole. Well I had a couple of options such as using an old album or using a different laminate. [8] Triangles 4 ½" per side, [4] will have a notch cut into them for the pressure beam. It is constructed from the same ¾” plywood as the rocker box. Share it with us! I cut the pieces in half and applied DAP contact cement to the laminate and bearing edge. The balance point is needed to know how big to make to make the Rocker Box. I located 3 screw holes near the edges of the bearing and the corners of the cradle avoiding the corner triangles. I first made the back legs by attaching two pieces to form an 'L' shape with wood glue and deck screws countersunk in the wood. Mark its outside edge on the top of the rocker base. This method makes a perfect circle where the edges are already squared off. The size was governed by the placement of the ground board feet. Through this center point, draw a 45° line (use the bottom edge of the cradle as the 0° reference) - this is the top edge of the bearing. A full list is included in the ‘Construction’ zip folder. Finally I paint the stand with with outdoor black paint. Round off all four corners of the rocker box base and baseboard with a small radius. Attach the altitude bearing wheels to the tube rings with oversize washers, sandwiching the dovetail bars. Apply two coats of external quality undercoat and topcoat paint to all surfaces, rubbing down between coats. Four holes near the ends are 1½ inches in; the two center holes in the top are centered. The core of the telescope, the steel mirror cell holds and adjusts the heavy, … I saw a homemade stand on the 10-minute astronomy website and used it as a model for my stand although I made several modifications. Remember I said I got the last of the Ebony Star Laminate for the altitude bearings. For this job you want a nearly perfect circle. For this work I was fortunate enough to have a router to use. Came across this while looking for some ground board/azimuth bearing ideas. Start the router and plunge it down by just 3mm, then lock it and slowly rotate it around the nail in a complete circle. I centered the rocker box onto the bottom as best as possible and the traced the outline onto the bottom. Now mark the height of the front piece on the edges of the two side panels; trim these ‘horns’ so the side panels sit flush against the front panel. For my box it was 12¼". Finally I sanded the rocker box and sealed it with I applied high gloss polyurethane. Attach them to the top of the rocker box sides spaced as close as possible to 70° apart. Lastly, I applied high gloss polyurethane to the entire cradle and installed felt pads to the circular triangles using gorilla glue. Lastly I cut the bottom as described previously. I used a router and made an arm out of quarter... 2) Applying Laminate & Finishing. Note that these positions are measured from the inner edge of the router bit. Wow looks really nice. Install knobs for ¼"-20 shafts onto ¼"-20 Pan Head Bolts (2" long) that will be used for lowering the pressure plate. The width is critical and needs to be cut with care so your cradle can swing freely: Rocker Box Front Width = Cradle Width + 1/8 inch Clearance Gap + (2 × Side Thickness). Did you make this project? We’ll assume that you have gathered all of the fixings, bearings and other parts listed in our ‘Components’ list. This time the circle will be incomplete, leaving you with two rocker box sides with one scalloped edge. Insert a 10mm bolt through rocker box’s smooth T nut, vinyl LP and into the T nut on the base board; tighten it with a nyloc nut underneath. Assemble box with wood glue and #17 1¼" or 1½" wire brads (four per side). PM builds one and speaks to John Dobson, the man behind the plans, about the joys of DIY … I traced two perpendicular lines through the center of the bottom piece and then set the rocker box onto it. Tape measure, protractor and pencil – For accurately marking out the positions of the various components. I was going to use the album (in fact I purchased Kenny Rogers Christmas Album from Ebay for $2.00) but decided to use an inexpensive laminate (Formica Brand Laminate 30-in x 96-in Ouro Romano-Etching Laminate) from Lowe's because the teflon sliders could be spaced farther apart. I had to remove wood from the circular triangles in order for a proper fit. Now position the front of the rocker box so that it touches the two sides. These were attached at the edge of the ground board 120 degrees away from each other. Then cut two holes in each wheel, with the pilot holes at the centre and the nail in the jig at position ‘c’. 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